How to Change an Inner Tube: Don’t Let Punctures Ruin Your Ride

One option to beat the odds is to run tubeless tyres. Even though they offer less rolling resistance, can run at lower pressures (giving more comfort and grip), and self-seal when punctures occur, most roadies prefer tubed tyres.

That’s why it’s essential you know what to do when you hear the dreaded psssssssss. Because, unlike the pros, there’ll be no team car coming to your rescue with a new wheel.

Starting with the basics – tool kit

If you get a puncture and don’t have the right tools with you, you’ll be going nowhere fast. Always carry tyre levers, a bike pump (manual or CO2 canister), an Allen Key, and the most obvious one, spare inner tubes.

There’s no such thing as a standard-sized tube (that would be too simple), so ensure you have the correct size. If you’re unsure what that is, it should say on the sidewall of your tyre (e.g. 700x25c, which means it’s a 700 mm diameter wheel with a 25mm tyre).

The second thing is that there’s no standard valve length either (of course not). If you have deep-section (aero) wheels, you’ll need 60-80mm values, whereas a standard value is 40mm.

How to change an inner tube

#1 Taking off the wheel

Before you get started, if you’re on your own, turn your bike upside down – it’ll make your life much easier.  

• Rim brakes:

If it’s a front wheel puncture, release the brakes, undo the quick release and remove the wheel.

If your rear wheel is punctured, release the brakes, ensure the chain is on the smallest sprocket, pull the derailleur back (so the sprocket doesn’t catch and the wheel drops), undo the quick release, and remove the wheel.

• Disc brakes:

Disc brake wheels can either come with a thru-axle tool attached or without.

If you don’t have one, you’ll need to carry an Allen Key with you to remove your wheel.

#2 Deflating the tyre

Now it’s time to let the air out of the tyre and unseat it from the wheel –assuming there’s still some air left in it.

Undo the valve and press it to release the air. Now comes the fun bit.

#3 Removing the tyre

This bit sounds simple, but it can be notoriously tricky.  

• Push the bead of the tyre (the outer edge of the tyre) away from the edge of the rim all the way around so it’s completely free on one side
• If your thumbs aren’t strong enough, flip the wheel so it’s facing away from you. Put both hands on the tyre, side by side, and use your fingers to squeeze the tyre to push the bead away from the edge of the rim
• Grab your tyre lever and place it under the bead to prise a section of the tyre over the side of the rim. Holding this in place, insert your second lever a few inches further along and do the same
• Go all the way around the wheel with your second lever until the tyre is off completely on one side

#4 Removing the inner tube

With the tyre off the rim, you should be able to push the inner tube value through its hole and pull out the tube.

#5 Putting in the new tube

Put a bit of air into the new tube so it starts to take a bit of shape. This makes it easier to fit and lowers the risk of pinching.

Push the inner tube valve through the rim and carefully feed the tube into the tyre all the way around, making sure it doesn’t twist, pinch, or bulge over the rim edge.

#6 Re-seating the tyre

Now comes the fun part. Holding the wheel in both hands (with the value at 12 o’clock), start fitting the tyre opposite the value. Work your hands up and around the wheel, pushing the tyre with your thumbs.

At first, the tyre will go on easily until you’re left with an unfitted section near the valve—it’s time to flex your biceps. Tightly grasp the rim where the tyre’s not fitted and use the other hand to go around the wheel, squeezing the tyre beads into the rim. In theory, this should give you enough slack to help you push the unfitted section of the tyre bead into place.

If you lack upper body strength, you’ll be pleased to hear there’s a tool for stubborn tyres called a ‘Bead Jack’.

Of course, that only helps if you have one with you – you’d better add it to your tool kit list.

#7 Inflate the wheel

You’re nearly there.

Now that the inner tube is in the tyre, you can fit the wheel back onto your bike (the reverse of step one). Once back on, pump it up with either your hand pump (if you have any strength left after re-seating the tyre) or your CO2 inflator.

Congratulations, you’ve just changed your puncture successfully.

Unfortunately, punctures are part of cycling. So, it’s important to remember to:

• Always be prepared and have the right tools and inner tubes with you
• Always have your phone, just in case you have a serious problem and need a ride home